Many years ago, while attending a conference in Long Beach, CA, I experienced virtually what it would be like to travel by sea on a luxury liner. The beautiful Queen Mary was put into service in 1936 and retired in 1967, to live a new live as a hotel. It is an elegant and timeless work of art, speaking to wealth in its historic time. During World War II, the ship was transformed into a transport vehicle for troops.
Modern luxury ships do not necessarily appeal in the same way. Bounteous 24-hour dining, on board casinos, unlimited alcohol, etc. are all indulgences that I can live without. But recently, my friend and former work colleague Susan invited me to join her on an ocean cruise to New Zealand and Australia on Viking Ocean Cruises, and the amenities of refined travel by sea became much more real.
It was a good time to be away. Southern California is on fire, devastating homes and lives, emotionally affecting all of us who live in Northern California. My home in San Francisco was experiencing small earthquakes, the epicenter of which was close to the City’s historic 1906 earthquake and fire. We all have friends and/or family in the greater Los Angeles area, and feel heartfelt sympathy and sadness on their behalf as they evacuate from their homes.

We began our journey in Auckland, New Zealand. Only a few hours off shore time was possible, as we sailed that evening to Tauranga, New Zealand, arriving early the following morning. The Maori people arrived in Tauranga in the 13th century. An extinct volcano and a sandy, family-friendly beach provided nearby hiking and running trail for locals as well as tourists. Susan and I walked a good seven miles that day.
Clearly one cannot go to New Zealand without encountering kiwi, both the fruit as well as information about the bird. At one of our stops, we were treated to a slice of golden kiwi. Somewhat tarter than the green kiwi, it is delicious. At a later stop on the tour, we learned that red kiwi has been developed, but currently is being shipped only to Japan.
My next tour was to a preserve nurturing young kiwi birds. Kiwi birds do not fly, and as ground runners, they are vulnerable to predators, and this sanctuary is dedicated to nurturing and restoring the population.

From there, we went on via motor coach to the Te Puia Reserve. The geothermal hot springs of Te Puia, including hot rocks, a geyser, and steaming mud pools, are overseen by a native Maori tribe. The springs shoot water high into the air, emitting great plumes of steam.
It was here that our young Maori guide gave us an introduction to the language, including some very long words and names. We were given a bountiful, delicious, and creative lunch, and time to tour the Arts Center and gift shop.
New Zealand is very respectful of its Maori indigenous culture, whose people today represent over 17% of the population. New Zealanders are working to introduce the Maori language into general culture, with Maori reflected in school curriculums and street signs. The beautiful greenstone indigenous to New Zealand grows nowhere else in the world.

Lumber is among the top commodities for export in New Zealand, along with coal, dairy, and beef and sheep meat. We attended a sheep shearing demonstration, in which the farmer showed the differences between using electric versus manual shears. This is tough, hard labor, as reflected in these very athletic men and women. The biggest importer of New Zealand goods is Mainland China, at 27.7 percent, followed by the U.S. at 12.3 percent.
New Zealand is not exempt from earthquakes. One of our guides in Tauranga, Rotorua stated that on average, New Zealand experiences an earthquake of significance every thirty years. One of our tour stops was in Christchurch, which experienced a devasting earthquake in 2011. This anglophile community, with a unique botanical garden featuring indigenous trees and plants, and plentiful tea rooms, was hit hard.
Much of the historic architectural was severely damaged in the earthquake, including a gorgeous cathedral. The city is now filled with new buildings, modern apartments and condos, with a bustling, rebuilt town center. But much remains to be done. The Cathedral remains shuttered, as the funding fell short of what is needed to restore all of its historic buildings.
Shore excursions on the Viking Venus are plentiful, offering opportunities for seeing much of the country off ship. But while on board, during travel by sea, a resident historian gave excellent lectures. Both the Aussies and New Zealanders have a wry sense of humor, taking gentle pokes at themselves as well as Americans, who made up the majority of the passengers. A gym, spa, and outdoor walking track were available for those who try to stay in shape, although afternoon high tea in the Wintergarden is a must. Board games, puzzles, and a daily Baggo competition between guests and officer crew offered fun for participants and spectators.
I should note that generally the officers won this competition. It would have been odd had they not, given that they play this game every day. Nonetheless, all was friendly.
Travel by sea includes shipboard entertainment, including a band, stage performers, history and art lectures, a duo featuring an electric violin and piano, were among the culturally enriching offering. But my clear favorite was Filip, a brilliantly gifted young classical pianist from Warsaw. His beautiful music will stay with me for a long time.
Next up: Travel by Sea: Australia
Eileen Shields
23 Jan 2025What a wonderful travelogue. Anxious for next post to read more. Now I def want to go!
Marcia Schneider
24 Jan 2025thanks!